wellinghall: (Orkney)
[personal profile] wellinghall
I am often asked ... two or three people have asked me ... someone mentioned it once ... how to get to Orkney.

You need to start from mainland Scotland*. There are then four airports and four ferry ports you can use, making seven** altogether. The airports are Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Inverness; the ferry ports are Aberdeen, Gills Bay, John O'Groats*** and Scrabster.

This means that, unless you are one of the 1% of my FList who live in Scotland, you first need to get to Scotland. If you want to take the car over, that means driving up, either to Aberdeen or to the north coast. But if, like me, you would rather gnaw your own leg off than drive all that way, you will need to find some other way.

This could be bus, train or plane. Bus will take forever. Train will be quicker, and can be fun, but I wouldn't advise going north of Aberdeen that way, otherwise it too will take forever. The flights from mainland Scotland to Orkney are all operated by Flybe for Loganair, under a codeshare-type arrangement with BA. So if you can fly up to Scotland with Flybe or BA, the ticketing should be easier. But whichever way you go, you can expect the flights to be expensive (or, more likely, very expensive).

The ferry from Scrabster takes you to Stromness, Orkney's second town; from Gills Bay to St Margaret's Hope, the largest village in the south isles; from John O'Groats to Burray, and a bus to Kirkwall; from Aberdeen to Hatston ferry terminal, a mile and a half out of Kirkwall, late at night, but with a bus into the centre. Kirkwall airport is a few miles the other side of Kirkwall, with busses and taxis into town.

Next - possibly - what to do while you're there.

*Or Shetland. Or, in the summer, Bergen.

**Yes, that does add up.

***Foot passengers only; also connects with a bus service from Inverness, and with a bus service to Kirkwall at the other end.

Date: 2012-07-16 10:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atreic.livejournal.com
Hmm. My flybe tickets to Inverness are about 60 quid each way, if I book them a few weeks in advance, and that's always the weekend popular flight. Is that what you're counting as 'very expensive'?

Date: 2012-07-16 10:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] philmophlegm.livejournal.com
Yeah, surely that's a lot cheaper than driving or getting the train. Maybe wellinghall means "compared to cycling"...

Date: 2012-07-16 10:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] philmophlegm.livejournal.com
Driving in northern Scotland is the best bit! You need the right car though...

Date: 2012-07-16 10:59 pm (UTC)
mair_in_grenderich: (dancing)
From: [personal profile] mair_in_grenderich
you'd need more than £60 worth of pasta for all that cycling, wouldn't you?

Date: 2012-07-16 11:22 pm (UTC)
emperor: (Phoenix)
From: [personal profile] emperor
depends how many of your cycling-calories you can get from beer along the way :-)

Date: 2012-07-17 06:07 am (UTC)

I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 06:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
Agree re. train. If you're already in Scotland then I can see that using it to pop up to Aberdeen/Inverness from Edinburgh/Glasgow would be economical, but from Oxford I'd be talking two full-day journeys plus at least one overnight stop (might be possible to manage without on the way back depending on timetables). The plane is going to have to cost a lot to beat that But maybe it does.

Date: 2012-07-17 06:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
One day I will manage to get to Orkney/Shetland. It always sounds brilliant. But not this day.

Date: 2012-07-17 07:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
I thought you would say something like that.

Date: 2012-07-17 07:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
And I thought you would say something like that ;-)

Date: 2012-07-17 07:34 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
The last few times we have flown up to Scotland, it has been more expensive than that (from memory); and the last twice I have looked at ticket prices, they have been much more expensive, but both of those times would have been flying over bank holiday weekends.

The main issue is that I am conflating the cost of "flying to Scotland" with the cost of "flying from Scotland to Orkney".

Date: 2012-07-17 07:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
But then you'd be spending much more on beer?

Re: I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 07:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
We have done Aberdeen by train once, but that was when we lived in Bedfordshire, and so could get into London easily and use the East Coast Main Line. We were able to go up to Aberdeen over the day, and then get the evening ferry, and do the whole thing in reverse coming back.

Date: 2012-07-17 07:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
It is. And I want to go back!

Date: 2012-07-17 09:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] crazyscot.livejournal.com
I was reading the other day about the holiday homes and hostel on the former RAF Saxa Vord site. If you thought Orkney was an effort...

First, you get yourself to Lerwick, requiring either a long ferry trip, or a flight to Sumburgh and a 20ish mile drive or bus. Then you (continue to) drive or bus another 20ish miles to the end of the Shetland mainland and catch the ferry to Yell. There, you bus or drive again for another 17 miles to the other end of that isle, whereupon you get another ferry to Unst. It's another ten miles to the arse end of Unst, which is on a rather grim exposed hill where there used to be a radar station that fed into NATO command. Said hill has the dubious claim to fame of holding the UK's unofficial wind speed record - accounts vary, as does the claimed speed (177-202mph), but there seems little doubt that several anemometers and radar heads have blown away over the years...

Date: 2012-07-17 09:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
We've been to Unst. We've been further north on Unst than Saxa Vord. It is a very, very long way away.

We haven't quite been to the northern tip of Unst, to Muckle Flugga, or to Out Stack, though. Yet.

Date: 2012-07-17 09:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] crazyscot.livejournal.com
I must go there, if only for the fascination of seeing the midnight sun in June. Hm. One to try and plan into a UK trip, methinks...

Re: I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 09:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atreic.livejournal.com
Sleeper train! Leave Oxford after work, (6ish) get to London 7ish, have a nice leisurely dinner, catch the sleeper train at 9ish, get a good night's sleep, and wake up in Aberdeen. OK, it's about 15 hours, but it's mostly sleeping, and it really is quite a time effective way to do it. It's just depressing that the plane is so much cheaper. You can leave work on Friday and I'd bet you'd get to Orkney in time for a late lunch on Saturday.

Date: 2012-07-17 09:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atreic.livejournal.com
I flew to Inverness on the Most Stupid Weekend to Fly to Inverness Ever (it was Rockness, _and_ the Olympic Torch, _and_ some famous Golf Tournament) and it cost 260 pounds return. In comparason, my September trip to Inverness (not in school hols, no Large Events) cost 110 pounds return.

[And that is including paying 12 pounds for a seat reservation, which is clearly stupid, just because I'm addicted to looking out of the window on planes]

I wonder if Brum to Inverness is a fairly generally useful route, and you end up paying tourist prices for the bit out to the islands?

Re: I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 09:41 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
It’s a pity. I looked at the sleeper for a journey back from Scotland for a Sunday night journey in the Autumn, but it would cost well over twice as much as a plane(comp. Edinburgh to Oxford, sleeper plus morning train ticket, and flight from Edinburgh to Heathrow plus coach).

Date: 2012-07-17 09:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nineveh-uk.livejournal.com
The one place in the world I would like to take a campervan is round the coast of north-west Scotland. In summer, obviously.

Re: I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 10:04 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atreic.livejournal.com
The knack is to get the bargain berths, but you really need to work out exactly which date they're going to be released (12 weeks in advance, I think), put that in your diary, and phone up ScotRail First Thing. I'm never organised enough to do it...

Re: I wouldn't start from here

Date: 2012-07-17 11:07 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
We've taken the sleeper to Glasgow, and then on to Oban and Tobermory. You could certainly have a late lunch in Orkney that way if you flew from Scotland, but the ferry sails from Aberdeen at about 5pm.

Date: 2012-07-17 11:08 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
You certainly pay high prices out to the islands. This is partly because of a lack of competition, but more because Kirkwall and Sumburgh airports are not large enough for most of Flybe's (or anyone else's) larger planes.

Date: 2012-07-17 11:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
At some way above 60 degrees North (I think), on a hill, and in BST, you might well get the midnight sun. But you certainly get midnight-light-enough-to-play-golf even without going all the way to Unst.

Date: 2012-07-17 11:11 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wellinghall.livejournal.com
I would quite like to do that, as long as I didn't have to drive the campervan all the way up there first.

Date: 2012-07-17 04:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] philmophlegm.livejournal.com
I fear we're looking for _very_ different things from a _driving_ holiday...


When I did my driving tour of Scotland a couple of years back, the far northwest was the bit I regret not having more time for. http://philmophlegm.livejournal.com/119973.html

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